The American Dream

By Anna Grace Moore
Photos by Blair Ramsey

Ringing out in melodious charm, the cathedral bells in Mexico City sang every Sunday afternoon as swarms of children peeled out of mass, eagerly anticipating one thing–ice cream from Señora Angelina Magaña de Medina’s paleteria. Cheers of happy children soon filled the streets as they squirmed to line up outside of her door.

Inside, Robert Medina watched as his mother lined up rows and rows of colorful paletas–strawberry, lime, peach and vanilla popsicles–as children packed like sardines in front of her shop window while squishing their smiles into the glass. Soon, she’d open the floodgates, and the rush hour would begin.

Robert never forgot her tender smile, welcoming each and every young one into her shop. That joy she radiated was such that he, too, wanted to reciprocate.

There was something alluring about families sharing ice cream on Sundays that seemed even sweeter than the taste. As a child, Robert says he never could quite put his finger on it.

But, this mysterious ingredient he would learn with time.

Crossing Cultures

Growing up, Robert moved almost every six months as his parents would work in the United States as farmers for stints of time before returning to his hometown in Mexico City. He attended kindergarten-fourth grade in California, fifth-seventh grade in Mexico and eighth-12th grade in California as well.

“They would come and work for six months, and then they would go back to Mexico,” Robert says. “My father and mother–they used to work in the fields, whatever they needed to do. My father was driving Caterpillars [tractors].”

Robert’s love for both American and Mexican culture grew as did his appreciation for his parents, working tirelessly to provide a good life for their children. It was not until Angelina founded her own business that the family set up roots across the Southern border.

“When we were going back and forth, and my mom decided to open some of the ice cream stores, those were some of the most influential times in my childhood,” Robert says. “My dream was opening something here.”

Finally, at age 20, Robert got his big break: His uncle invited him to work at his restaurant in Decatur, Alabama.

Robert spent two years doing every job–hosting, waiting tables, washing dishes, cooking food–any job he was presented. While working in the family business was nice, he yearned to have a restaurant of his own.

Then in 1997, Robert founded Mexico Lindo on Hollywood Boulevard, which connects Mountain Brook and Homewood.

Those first few years were tough as he was having to finance his dream; yet, he never quit even when the going got tough. In 2006, the business’ landlords sold the property, forcing Mexico Lindo to relocate a quarter-mile down the road.

Ironically in 2010, the original space’s new landlords called Robert, inviting him to return and lease the space again. Robert loved the building, so he moved Mexico Lindo back into its first location.

Now, Mexico Lindo has celebrated its 29th anniversary. Almost as soon as he opened the business, Robert met the love of his life, Gabriela Gallegos, at the restaurant.

Gabriela was dining with family, when she first caught the attention of the aspiring entrepreneur. Today, the lovebirds have enjoyed 29 years of joyful union.

Robert says because of Gabriela, his staff and all of the community’s support, he has gotten to do what he loves every day for the last three decades. For them, he will be forever grateful.

“They’re the best,” he says.

A Love for Liberty Park

In 2011, Robert saw an opportunity to open another Mexican restaurant in a vacancy in Liberty Park. The brainchild of the Medinas, Leon La Taberna has been serving Liberty Park patrons for the past 13 years.

The name, which translates to “Lion the Tavern,” pays homage to Robert’s sister and her family, who live in the town of León, Mexico.

At first glance, one notices the six-foot-tall, concrete busts depicting mighty lions “roaring” outside the front entrance. Strolling inside, however, one is transported to a laid-back tavern in the Mexican countryside–a stark but welcoming contrast for hungry customers who are greeted with cheerful salutations as they are escorted to their seats.

The menu provides a plethora of traditional, Mexican dishes with a few more “Americanized” options sprinkled throughout the selections. Catering to every taste, Leon La Taberna provides even meals the pickiest eater will enjoy.

The Leon Nachos–consisting of beans, shredded cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, jalapeños, sour cream and guacamole–are topped with either beef or chicken on a bed of piping hot, crispy chips. To taste a symphony of flavors, take a bite of this delectable dish.

While kids love the niños tacos and enchiladas, adults will enjoy options such as the Huevos Motuleños–two over-easy eggs sandwiched in with salsa, black beans and chorizo in a palatable quesadilla. One of Robert’s favorites, the Tinga layers chicken, bacon and onions in hot chipotle sauce on a tostada with queso fresco, Pico de gallo and sour cream.

“We of course have the normal combinations, but we also have a little bit of different things like Chilaquiles,” Robert says. “They’re fried tortillas that you soak in green or red sauce. You mix them together, and you put whatever the customer wants–usually chicken–we do like two eggs on top and Mexican cheese. You mix it together, and it’s delicious.”

Vegetarians often gravitate towards the Texas Veggie Burrito, which is stuffed with grilled peppers, tomatoes, onions and mushrooms with Leon La Taberna’s signature sauce drizzled on top. Meat lovers, on the other hand, claim the Pollo a la Charra–a medley of chicken, chorizo, onion, tomatoes, shredded cheese, rice and beans–to be the perfect combination to satisfy an empty stomach.

One would be remiss not to try any of the house-made margaritas. A popular pick, the Leon Margarita fuses Hornitos with Blue Curaçao and citrus juice to pack a punch.

The Skinny Margarita, too, is a savory combination of Jose Cuervo Gold, Triple Sec and fresh citrus juice–either are flavorful options for a date-night or a night-out on the town.

More than Business

While the cuisine at Leon La Taberna is second-to-none, the staff says working for the Medinas is even better. Gigi Arriaga, the general manager at Leon La Taberna, has been working for the Medinas for eight years.

He originally started as a server at Mexico Lindo, working his way up into management.

“They really care so much about other people,” Gigi says. “They’re always trying to help you out.”

In November 2020, he was diagnosed with colon cancer. Gigi says his work family was devastated by the diagnosis, but they never gave up hope.

After several rounds of treatments, Gigi became cancer-free in 2022 but only for a few short months as his cancer returned in March 2023. Nonetheless, every time he had to miss work to go to an appointment or was feeling too sick to come in, Robert, himself, would often cover the shifts, making sure Gigi prioritized his health.

“If someone is giving you a hand to make a little money because you’re not working that many hours, they don’t care what you’re going through,” Gigi says. “They still open the doors for you. The best thing I can be is thankful.”

Employee retention is high across the board at Mexico Lindo and Leon La Taberna. Many of the Medinas’ staff have worked double-digit years.

“Samuel, he’s been here for 11 years,” Robert says. “At Mexico Lindo, my manager, Carlos, has been with me for 28 years. I’ve been in business for 29. I have a waiter who has been with me for 24 years, Martín. A cook over there has been with me for at least 20 years, Miguel.”

Robert attributes his success to the people who have invested in his journey–many of them, his staff. Customers and workers soon become friends, and friends become family, he says.

No matter what day of the week it is, Robert enjoys coming into Leon La Taberna, catching up with old, family friends–longtime customers and staff–and even befriending newcomers, too.

Sundays top the rest, however. Why? Because families often dine-in on these afternoons, spending time eating, laughing and bonding with one another.

After all, love is the best ingredient in any recipe for success–and it is multiplied in the hearts of those we hold dear.

Leon La Taberna is located at 8000 Liberty Parkway in Vestavia Hills. It is open Sunday-Thursday from 11 a.m.-9 p.m. and Friday-Saturday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. For catering or to-go orders, call 205-977-7899.